Exfoliation helps make your complexion glow and prepares your skin for self-tanners and body-baring styles. But it takes a little know-how to do it right.
By Alexandra Plotkin and Lu Heaney
Wet, wash, moisturize. Repeat. Those are the most basic steps in a skin–care routine — and important ones — but a little extra care could make your skin even healthier and more beautiful. Check out this expert advice on exfoliation and how your skin can benefit.
What Is Exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the removal of the oldest layer of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface. It can be performed by rubbing skin with an abrasive scrub or with the use of chemical product.
The process also unclogs pores and reduces blackheads and blemishes, says aesthetician Lu Heaney, a skincare director at Gotham Skincare in New York City. Exfoliation stimulates the skin and may encourage cell turnover too, she says.
Choose Your Product Based On Your Skin’s Needs
“The average cell turnover for our skin is every 28 days, but that slows as we grow older,” says Heaney. For younger skin, she suggests exfoliating weekly with a product containing jojoba beads, rice, sugar, salt, oatmeal, or micro–beads that may dissolve dead skin cells. Exfoliants that contain crushed apricot kernel or almond shell are often too abrasive, she says.
Sponges, loofahs, brushes, microfiber cloths and adhesive exfoliation sheets can all be used for mechanical exfoliation, Heaney says. However, she adds “be sure to cleanse these items thoroughly after each use to prevent them from harboring bacteria, which may be transferred onto your skin.”
For mature skin, products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) help the skin release dead cells and accumulated debris. “They may help lighten pigmented areas and soften rough skin,” Heany says. Irritation may result, however, depending on the product’s pH level. “A concentration of 10% or less at a pH of 3.5 or greater is often best for home care,” she says.
Do It Yourself
“Apply the exfoliation product in smooth, circular movements, avoiding the eye area. Use light pressure that allows the product to do most of the work,” Heaney suggests.
A steamy shower is the perfect place to exfoliate. “Steam softens the skin,” Heany adds. It’s also ideal preparation for adding moisturizer.
When Extra Help Is Needed
If your skin needs exfoliation beyond what you can do at home, talk with a physician. Chemical exfoliants, such as peels, usually contain salicylic acids, glycolic acids, or fruit acids and are best applied by a pro, Heaney says.
For oily skin, salicylic acid works well. It penetrates the oil–filled pores and removes any dead skin cells that have built up inside by loosening the bond that holds the cells together, says Heaney.
Microdermabrasion removes surface cells in a controlled manner using light abrasion; it also may remove or lessen the appearance of scars and dark spots. Along with chemical exfoliation, it can help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, says Heaney. Microdermabrasion consists of mechanical abrasion using a low–pressure suction pump that blasts tiny crystals from a penlike device. The expelled crystals and exfoliated skin cells are then removed by a vacuum.
Following a chemical peel or microdermabrasion treatment, you may experience slight discomfort, and your skin may look pink, much like having mild sunburn. For the next three days, avoid swimming, heat exposure (including tanning and sunbathing), and heavy makeup. It is critical to wear a broad–spectrum sunscreen during this period.
When to Skip Exfoliation
Nix the exfoliation if you’ve had too much sun, says Heaney. After a mild sunburn, the first thing to do is treat; moisturize and protect the burned area with aloe or creams, she advises. “When sunburned, your skin is exceedingly vulnerable and may dry out and crack, which can result in infection.” After a few days, the skin will begin to shed because it has been damaged. At this point, gentle exfoliation can be done using jojoba beads, oatmeal or sugar–based products, Heaney says. “A press–and–release method of exfoliation is best,” she advises. “Do not scrub. This should be a delicate process. I would recommend exfoliating at night and applying moisturizing cream so that your skin can begin to heal and regenerate.”